How to Make DIY Flare Jeggings Inspired by Vogue Magazine (Part 1) | Pattern Hack: S8424
I’ll show you how to sew stylish flare jeggings using the S8424 pattern, inspired by a chic photo I spotted in Vogue Magazine featuring Dooney & Burke. By adding my own creative touches, I transformed the classic flare style into a personalized, one of a kind look. The original pattern is for a yoga style pant, but I adjusted it to a flare style. I’ll walk you through the entire sewing process, from choosing fabric to fitting, so you can create a pair of flare jeggings that are both fashionable and flattering. This project is perfect for anyone looking to elevate their DIY wardrobe with a trendy twist!
Transcript
Join me as I take this photo from Vogue Magazine and turn it into an actual outfit that I wear. Here is the inspiration photo, I’ll put it up beside me as well, and I will take you through the steps on how I created this outfit, but put my own spin on it. Hi everyone, my name is Teria with Peace and Make, and in today’s video, I have a two-part series where I show how I make the shirt and the pants of this inspiration outfit. I made a few changes. The shirt is going to be white, a very lightweight cotton fabric, but it’s not going to be cropped as high, and the pants are going to be made with a blue jean knit—or I don’t even know the proper term for it—but basically, it’s going to be a flare jegging pant made out of a knit material. In today’s video, I’m going to show you the process I went through to make the pants for the outfit, and then in video number two, I’m going to show you how I made the shirt for the outfit. After that, I’ll show you the final pictures I took, making them look actually similar to this inspiration photo. I was just so inspired, I was like, “Ooh, let me pose like her!” So yeah, you’ll see all of that as I take you on this journey. I hope that you enjoy all of it.
Alrighty, I wanted to show you all where I got this fabric from, and it came from KnitFabric.com. I basically looked up “jeggings fabric,” and that’s where I got it from. This website actually has some really nice fabric, just all knits, and so I actually want to check out some of their other stuff. The prices are decent, too. Like, they even have 100% wool. Very nice!
The first part of the video, I’m going to show you some of the pattern adjustments I made. I’m going to do a drawing so you can see how the pattern was before and after. I would just show you the entire pattern, but it’s so long that the camera can’t capture it, so me drawing it out is actually a little bit easier.
Okay, everyone, so I want to show you my process because this is a pattern that I use for these flare jeggings. I used View A No View B, Yes I used View B. So what I do is flip it on the back and look at the line drawing. This is what I have to work with. So when you get the pattern piece, the original pattern piece was more like this. It tapered down at the bottom so that you could get that way it hugs your legs at the bottom. I wanted a flare look, so from right here, I just extended that line out. I went from this, once again, eyeballing it, to this, and then I made a little curve at the bottom because I noticed that when I do a straight line, it doesn’t look as smooth. I guess because the body is curvy, but just over the years, I’ve realized that if it’s a little curve—not a deep curve—then it looks nice. So the pattern piece goes from this to this. When you’re adjusting this at home, it might help to take a ready-to-wear pair of pants that you have and trace over that pair of pants to extend your line. The other thing you have to look out for somewhere in here is going to be your knee. You don’t want to flare it out all the way up here on your mid-thigh, nor do you want to flare out all the way to low like your mid-calf. It needs to be around the knee or a little bit above the knee when you start to flare it out, depending on the look you’re trying to get. That’s what I ended up doing to make this pattern. I use another pattern as a base, and then if I can just simply draw the lines out, I’m going to do that. Also, that’s why I do a muslin, because once I make the adjustments, I want to make sure it looks right on my body before I cut into my good fabric.
Okay, so I made two muslins for my jeggings. I have the first one on, and then I’ll show you all the second one. So, looking at it, it seems like it’s fine, but I wanted a looser fit around the crotch area. Also, I’m not going to turn around, but the bottom is just a little bit… the back is too tight. Also, I have on leggings underneath this, so I want to be able to show you all. The waist is too short, so you’ll see the difference when I pull up the other ones. So yeah, I redid the pattern, and this is the one that I actually went with. Okay, be right back in a sec.
Okay, so you may not be able to tell, but these are the other ones. See how the waist comes up a lot higher? These are actually a little bit more loose than the other ones. Okay, so I like these because the fit is more loose. Also, the crotch comes down a little bit more—the crotch curve is lower than the first one, so that’s good. The other thing I like about these pants is that because they’re a little bit loose, they give me room to grow. If I eat something, I can still fit them; they won’t stretch out too much. The other thing is that it’s just comfortable. I don’t like super tight clothes, so these are fitted but not too tight. Yeah, I like these better. This is what I cut out my jegging fabric with, and then I’ll show you the next steps.
Okay, so in the last frame, you saw me try on the muslin, and the first muslin didn’t work right. Then you saw me try on the second muslin, and the fit was awesome. I just want to show you all what I did. Let’s say this is the pattern piece. I adjusted just the back pattern piece. Two things were happening. The waist was too small, I mean too short, and the other thing that was happening is that the back was too tight for me. I wanted a looser fit. So imagine this is the pant pattern. I know you can’t see all the way down to the bottom. Actually, you can.
In order to make my waist higher, all I did was continue this line up some, and it’s going to—I’m not going to give you the exact measurement because, one, I don’t measure it like that; I eyeball it. Also, depending on your body, will depend on how much you want to make that waistband higher. So basically, I made the waistband higher up like that, and then I came down, and for the back—okay, for your butt—I wanted it to be looser, so I extended this line out a little bit and then did like that. That way, when the line goes over your crotch area, you’ll have more space right there. So that’s how I adjusted my pattern pieces, extending this up and then extending this out.
If you, for example, wanted to make the waistband lower (I’m a tall girl, so if you’re shorter than me and this part was too high), you would just decrease that line down there. That will make the top part of your pants meet at a lower point on your waist if it’s too tall the first time. You know, high-waisted pants are in, but I know there’s a limit to how high you want your waist to be. So yeah, and then also if you want to bring that curve in right there, just bring that in some and connect it to your original line. On the pattern piece, you just cut it. I use Swedish tracing paper because it’s very easy for me to make these adjustments, cut the pattern, and keep it moving.
Alrighty, now I am going to cut out the waistband. Sorry, but I already cut out the front and the back of the pants. I cut them, and then once I started cutting the waistband, I was like, “Wait, I should probably film this,” so that’s why I have this clip right here. The other thing to note is that initially, I cut this long straight line for the waistband, but I’m going to cut it in half for the front and the back.
Awesome, now I have all of the pieces cut for the pants. Here is the front, here is the back, and the waistband. The other thing that I may do—I have this—depending on if I think that this fabric is thick enough, I might cut this out for a lining and put that on the inside of these pants. We’ll see once I try them on.
This clip is where I’ve cut out the front and back pieces, and I’ve put labels on them because I have sewn two front sides together before. I have sewn the wrong pieces together, so at this point, I just label them and put them inside out. When I sew it, I’m going to sew it inside out. This is just a little method I developed, and since I started doing this, I don’t get my pattern pieces mixed up. It all looks the same when you cut it, so this method is super helpful.
I’m going to do a test stitch at 3.5 length, 2.5 width, with the lightning stitch. That’s the one I like to use for the side seams of the front and back of the pants and for most of the waistband, but I use a different stitch when I put the elastic on the waistband. I’ll show my waistband technique that I really like—you can kind of see it, but not really because it’s dark fabric.
I just remembered, I like to actually do a basting stitch on my seams. And a basting stitch is one that is just temporary, but I do that first so I can try on the pants to make sure that the fit is right, and then I’ll come back and do a final stitch once I know it’s perfect.
You can see how I finished the waistband here. I used a zigzag stitch to secure the waistband, and I like the way it turned out. Now I’m ready to finish these pants and wear them out! Stay tuned for the next video on the shirt.
